When i dry run the motors in CF i have no trouble with desync as long as i calibrate the motors to 1848 in BLheli and use max throttle 1830 in CF. The trouble is that when i do a hard yaw the esc´s loose sync and are prone to burning. I have a ZMR 250 that i have modified and turned into a pusher prop design. I am having some troubles with esc´s popping lately. Let me know if you think some the above factors are the ESC killer, or anything else I have not mentioned. You probably don’t want to push the limit with these ESCs. Also I think the reason for miniture ESCs like DYS SN20A and KISS 18A to catch fire so often is due to the tiny size, insufficient surface area will make heat dissipation slower, and they don’t even come with heat-sink. Simply Bad ESCīadly designed or over-rated ESCs are likely to catch fire. I personally prefer mounting ESCs on the arms, cheapest and most effective way to avoid overheat. Whatever you do, always have good air flow to help ESCs cool down. Hope someone with experience with these firmware to shed some light on it! Bad Air Flow to Cool ESC Down I have heard more than once that people accuse BLHeli firmware for burning ESC in general, and said SimonK doesn’t have this issue as often. But this feature really improves flight performance. Some prefer “med-high” for Cobra 2204 2300KV motors, and seem to have good result.ĭoes Damped light put more pressure on the motors and ESCs? I think it does, as it uses more power to actively brakes the prop and motor from spinning when you slow down. I think for most motors the default “medium” is pretty good. I have heard when motor timing is set to too high, some motors just draw excessive amount of current, gets hot or simply don’t work well. Pretty sure motor timing has an effect on how the motor runs. Nt ESC setting – Damped Light / Motor Timing / Demag The overshoot is dance all over the place! Must be painful for the motors! The overshoot is huge with high P gain.Īnd finally here is a flip. Notice there are two rapid changes of motor speed, First one is the actual roll, the second part is the overshoot (as known as “bounce”). Here I was just flying forward with medium throttle.Īnd here is a roll. (If you are interested in how blackbox works, stay tune I will put a tutorial on my blog tomorrow night!) The flight with higher P gains, you can clearly see the change of motor speed is more violent, even when the quadcopter isn’t doing much the lines are still jumping quite a bit. What I found interesting in those blackbox graphs was the motor outputs (The lines at the bottom). Luckily I was running blackbox and I got some data of the flights. I am comparing the data of two different flights, first one with P gain of 2.0, and the other with P gain of 7.0 (both roll and pitch), all other PID values and rates are identical. This is what I think was responsible for my last ESC fire. When your P is high, the quadcopter will try to change motor speed more rapidly and stabilize the aircraft harder, therefore motors will draw more current. Although some ESC’s are rated for 6S, and a good proportion of them are reliable, there is a higher chance of burning the ESC than 4S. So here are my theory what could potentially cause ESC set on fire: Running Higher Voltages
#Fms esc over heating problems how to
I also written a guide on how to choose ESC you should check out. This mini quad flew reliably and beautifully for the last 2 months, and you know what I did before that crash? I almost doubled my P gain for both roll and pitch (I was testing the effect of high P gain, it was changed from 3.8 to 7) As I walked closer to the quad I saw lots and lots of smoke, and fire! I rushed to the crash site, immediately unplug the lipo battery, few seconds later the fire went out. The quad flew happily for 30 mins, but after a sharp turn, the quad just fell out of the sky. A bit of background from yesterday: I was experimenting with different PID.